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Writer's pictureRiviera Route

The Markets of Monaco

Seeing so many expensive sports cars, helipads and luxury apartments, it is easy to think that Monaco is just a playground for the very rich. But it is also a working city with 40,000 locals who love simple, fresh Riviera cuisine just as much as anyone else on this region. That is particularly evident in Monaco's lively food markets, somewhat hidden out of view but definitely worth seeking out if you're interested in Monegasque traditions.

The Condamine market

The Condamine Market on Place d’Armes operates from Tuesdays to Saturdays, from early morning until early afternoon. Outdoors, it is primarily a fresh fruit and vegetable market, but inside the covered market, La Halle Gourmande, there are wonderful - and fairly inexpensive - prepared meals, including Monegasque specialities such as barbajuans (fried, stuffed fritters) and pichade (a bread-based tomato and anchovy snack). Other Riviera dishes on sale include socca (chickpea pancake) and ravioli. It is a favourite lunch-time stop for office workers who keep Monaco's financial services sector ticking along.

Inside the Halle Gourmande, off Place d'Armes

The Gustave Eiffel Market, also known as Beausoleil market, is in a beautiful wrought-iron structure designed by the great architect Mr Eiffel himself. Standing on the Boulevard de la République, it is open every morning. It sells fruit and vegetables, meat and prepared meals. Fruit and vegetables stalls are located on the north side. It is a proper, workaday Mediterranean market full of local shoppers buying produce for their family kitchens - a far cry from the what many people think glamorous Monaco is about!

The Monte Carlo market, right by Saint Charles' church

Nearby, the Monte Carlo Market begins at the French border with Beausoleil, along the continuation of Boulevard de la République which in Monaco is called Avenue Saint-Charles. It is open every morning and primarily sells fruit and vegetables, to Monegasque people as well as the many French and Italians who live crowded around the borders of this unique principality.

Monaco's markets are a reminder of the joy of Riviera food, and they show that the principality is not disconnected from its region. Monaco is definitely part of the broader Riviera food culture - a food culture worth celebrating!

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