Searching for destinations away from big crowds? In our “Hidden Riviera” blog series, we are continuing to review unspoilt destinations on both the French and Italian Riviera where you can enjoy a summer break safely and with no compromises. This week we explore the Riviera’s Lavender heritage and we reveal when to see lavender in bloom, where to buy lavender-based products and where to witness the best lavender festivals.
Think of lavender and your mind inevitably goes towards the South of France. While the areas around Valensole and Sault concentrate most of the lavender production in Provence, the French Riviera has a strong tradition of cultivating this aromatic flower, too. This should not come as a surprise; the city of Grasse, located about 20km inland from Cannes, was for centuries the centre of Europe’s perfume industry. Even today, its perfumeries are thriving, and the cultivation of lavender and other flowers continues to be a significant activity in the surrounding areas.
The small village of Gourdon, a steep climb 15k north of Grasse, is the gateway to the plateau de Caussols, a vast area of limestone and shrub sitting 1,450m above sea level. These are perfect conditions for growing good-quality lavender, which requires porous soil, high altitude and plenty of sunshine. Some lavender farms can be visited just outside Gourdon, and the village itself has numerous perfume and soap makers. Even outside lavender season, there are plenty of reasons to visit the town. The views from the village across the Loup valley are stunning. There is also a splendid chateau (not currently open to the public due to restoration works) with terraced gardens designed by none other that André le Nôtre, the famous head gardener of the Palace of Versailles.
Flower cultivation is equally important on the Italian side of the Riviera. The hills around Sanremo, Bordighera and Ventimiglia have so many greenhouses for flower cultivation that the area is dubbed the “Riviera dei Fiori” - ‘Riviera of the flowers”. To find lavender, however, you have to go high up the valleys. Here you will find places like Seborga, a small town with little over 300 inhabitants, but with a fierce identity (in fact, they claim that their territory is a centuries-old Principality, and continue to have a ruling Princess, a flag, and even a national guard). Lavender is a symbol of Seborga, and every summer they hold a lively festival where you can find scented sachets, beauty products and the famous lavender-flavoured biscotti made in nearby Vallecrosia.
Further east, in the valley Argentina, the hamlet of Agaggio Inferiore (just outside Molini di Triora) is home to the famous Cugge distillery, where you can find artisanal skincare and essential oils for aromatherapy. In past seasons, the distillery has organised hiking excursions to allow visitors to explore their lavender fields further up the valley. If you find yourself in the area, you can also explore the town of Carpasio, which even has a small museum dedicated to lavender cultivation and distilling.
To really witness how important lavender is to the culture of the Italian Riviera, make sure you visit the city of Taggia on the 22 July, the feast day of Mary Magdalene. In the late afternoon, the confraternities of the town will be coming back from a 24-hour pilgrimage to a remote chapel in the hills behind Taggia. Legend has it that the chapel was the location where Mary Magdalene spent the night on her journey from the Holy Land to Provence (she is said to have lived and died in Provence, which is why she is venerated the as the Patron Saint - if you have read “the Da Vinci Code” you will know all about this!). In order to show that they succeeded in reaching their destination, the confraternities of Taggia enter the city on horseback carrying lavender… tons and tons of lavender bouquets, which they then toss in the air as a gift for the cheering crowds. This is truly one of the most colourful and beautiful festivals in the whole of Liguria, and one that shows the strong connection between Provençal and Genoese traditions which make the Riviera such a fascinating region.
Lavender Festivals: Because of Covid-19 restrictions some of the region’s lavender festivals may be postponed or cancelled in 2020, so it is a good idea to check websites and social media for announcements. Previous years have seen festivals held in French Riviera locations such as Gourdon, Saint Agnès and Peille, and on the Italian Riviera in places such as Seborga, Pigna, Bajardo and Carpasio.
When to see: If you want to see lavender fields in bloom, the season on the Riviera and in the rest of Provence normally runs from mid-June till the end of July. Festivals tend to be held immediately after harvest, i.e. from the end of July until mid-August.
Lavender and wellness: Looking to organise a wellness retreat centred on lavender-based products and aromatherapy? Riviera Route can help you. More information here.
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