As Covid-19 restrictions begin to ease in many countries around the world, many holidaymakers will review plans for their forthcoming breaks. Those searching for destinations away from big crowds will find a fantastic offering on the Riviera. In a series of blog posts dedicated to the "Hidden Riviera", we will review a handful of options to enjoy a vacation safely and without sacrificing holiday highlights like sunny weather, sightseeing and good food.
This week we explore Terra Brigasca, a fascinating and beautiful mountain region situated in the Maritime Alps, divided evenly between France and Italy.
Terra Brigasca owes its name to the town of La Brigue, the region's cultural capital, located about 80km inland from the city of Nice and a dozen or so kilometres from the Italian border. La Brigue was once part of Italy, only becoming French after the end of World War II. The town still displays plenty of street signs and public notices in Italian from its pre-1947 period. Historically, however, the locals spoke neither French nor Italian but Brigasque, a unique dialect with links to both Genoese and Occitan languages. Brigasque came to be the common language of a number of townships located near mountain pastures: La Brigue and Morignole in France, Realdo, Verdeggia and Briga Alta in Italy. These places offered alpine refuges and other facilities for shepherds who brought their livestock for summer grazing, an activity that continues to this day and which is known as transhumance.
It is no surprise, then, that the symbol of the region - besides its language - is its very own breed of sheep, the Brigasque sheep. Hardy, agile and imposing, the breed is extremely rare and the numbers are in steady decline; there are only between 1,500 and 2,000 left in the world. The number of shepherds dedicated to rear Brigasque sheep is even smaller, nowadays down to single figures. The most common product made from the sheep’s milk is a delicate, fatty and rustic Toma/ Tomme cheese, although ricotta and its mature version, Brüs, can also be found. Historically, dairy was so important to the diet of the Brigasque people that their culinary tradition is known as cucina bianca (white cuisine) as cooking here invariably included cheese and/or white flour in some form. Fresh pasta discs known as ‘sugelli’ (similar in shape to Puglia’s orecchiette) are the pride of the Terra Brigasca.
There is outstanding natural beauty all around the region. The majestic peak of Mont Saccarel / Monte Saccarello, dividing France and Italy, will be irresistible for committed mountain hikers. But even a leisurely drive leading up from Valle Argentina to Realdo or indeed from the Vallée du Roya to la Brigue, is breathtaking. Natural ponds and waterfalls appear at every turn of the road, so it is never difficult to find a quiet spot to cool off and enjoy the fresh mountain air. Terra Brigasca would also be the perfect location for a wellness, health or yoga retreat, which Riviera Route can help organise. Find out more here.
There are plenty of other sights as well. Culture buffs will not be disappointed with the stunning cycle of frescoes inside the small isolated chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines, just outside la Brigue. The impressive scenes depicting Christ’s passion were painted by the Piedmontese master Giovanni Canavesio in 1492, and have earned the site’s nickname of ‘the Sistine Chapel of the Riviera”. Both La Brigue and Realdo have museums dedicated to local traditions and folklore, and there is a busy calendar of summer events from handicraft markets, to concerts (the Brigasques are famous for their acappella chants) and food festivals.
The towns of Terra Brigasca are mainly accessible from Italy. La Brigue can be reached by exiting the Nice-Genoa A8/A10 motorway at Ventimiglia, following signs on the SS20 road to Breil-sur-Roya on the French side and continuing in the direction of Tende. Realdo and Verdeggia can be reached by exiting at Arma di Taggia and following signs on the SP548 road to Triora. Briga Alta is best reached from Imperia, following signs on the SS28 road to Pieve di Teco.
Border crossings between France and Italy are due to reopen fully on 15 June 2020.
Comments