The Riviera's best beaches: the definitive guide

It is the height of summer on the Riviera and there is only one thing in most visitors’ minds: heading to the beach. Even in this unusual 2020 holiday season, our region’s beaches remain the main attraction… and with good reason. The stunning geography, the pristine turquoise waters and the ease of access make the Riviera one of Europe’s favourite seaside destinations. But where exactly will you spread out your towel, set up your umbrella and toss your frisbee? In this article we give you a definitive guide to the best beaches to seek out on you next trip to the Riviera.

Best beach for natural beauty: Balzi Rossi, French/Italian border

There is little competition here. The “spiaggetta” of Balzi Rossi, almost exactly on the border between France and Italy, is widely regarded as the most beautiful of the Riviera. Towering cliffs, crystal-clear water and the dramatic position between the two countries make this a truly spectacular spot. You can only access the Balzi Rossi beach on foot, and although it is technically in Italy, it is best reached from the French side. Walking from Menton Garavan station, cross the border into Italy at Ponte San Ludovico and walk past the Museum of Prehistoric Balzi Rossi, then follow the well-signposted path.

Best for natural beauty: Balzi Rossi

Best beach for people-watching: Nice, France

The pebbly beach that skirts the side of the Promenade des Anglais is a symbol of the French Riviera. Its intense turquoise hues remind you that you have left the climes of Northern Europe behind and that you have made it to the dazzling Côte d’Azur. In the late afternoon, the beach and "la Prom” become the mandatory hangout for holidaymakers and locals alike, who take to jogging, skating, cycling or simply strolling and posting selfies to make the folks back home jealous.

Best for people-watching: Nice

Best sandy beach: Arma di Taggia, Italy

Although pebbles rarely get in the way of a great day at the beach (especially if you are equipped with crocs!), for many beachgoers sand is best. Luckily, there are a handful of sandy beaches dotted along the Riviera, including Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. However, the largest and best sandy beach is at Arma di Taggia, just east of Sanremo. A “Blue Flag” certified beach since 2015, this 1km-long-beach has both public and private areas (lidos). The seaside promenade is lined with bars and restaurants. Arma is well connected by public transport to Sanremo and to the nearby rail station further inland.

Best sandy beach: Arma di Taggia

Best beach for an après-plage cocktail: Cannes, France

Cannes packs in all the Riviera clichés of palm-lined boulevards, grand hotels and flashy sports cars. It also lives up to the images of champagne-fuelled parties at sunset. If you want to join in the fashionable crowds for a drink or two, you are spoilt for choice with the beach bars of La Croisette. Many of them offer sunbed and umbrella rental, too. For dinner, head to the port area, or search a more intimate spot in the medieval area of le Suquet.

Best for an après-plage cocktail: Cannes

Best beach to escape the crowds: San Lorenzo al Mare, Italy

San Lorenzo is 17km west of Sanremo, but it is a world away: a tiny fishing village with character and charm, and a long beach stretching west where you are sure to find peace and quiet. Though the village is small, it has everything you need including bars, restaurants and shops. You can get there by bus from Sanremo or Imperia, or better still, you can cycle there: the gorgeous cycle path of the Western Italian Riviera goes right through the heart of San Lorenzo. Bike rental is available at several points along the cycle path, including one at San Lorenzo.

Best beach to refresh after a workout: Larvotto, Monaco

If you want to keep fit during your holidays on the Riviera, a great place to run, jog or walk is the Sentier des Douaniers, a hiking trail that follows the breathtaking coastline of Cap Martin. At its western end, the pathway leads you to the Larvotto area of Monaco, where you will find the principality’s largest beach. The sandy beach is well kept and is popular with residents of Monte Carlo, which is only around the corner.

Best beach for easy access: Sablettes, Menton, France

If you want that feeling of leaving your hotel room and stepping right into the sea, then Menton is the place for you. Sablettes is the sandy beach right at edge of the medieval town, providing a spectacular view of the Maritime Alps. The public areas surrounding the beach were recently renovated, and now include shaded shelters to sit and read, mist cooling systems, water fountains, an outdoor gym and lockers to store your belongings. It is all that a public beach should be!

Best for easy access: Sablettes, Menton

Best beach for families: Bordighera, Italy

A age-old problem faced by families at the beach is finding space, both on the beach and in the areas around it. Thankfully, Bordighera has one of the longest beaches of the Riviera (2km) and there’s plenty of room for everybody. There are large car park areas near the railway station, near the hospital and up in the old town. Kids will appreciate the dozens of excellent gelaterie along the Via Aurelia and the play areas along the Lungomare Argentina, Bordighera’s seaside promenade. There is also something for everyone at the town’s Flea market, which can be found right by the beach the first Sunday of the month.

Best beach for bringing your dog: Ospedaletti, Italy

Many dog owners would not dream of going on holidays without their furry friends. For those who want to enjoy a refreshing dip with their pets, Ospedaletti has a dedicated dog beach at the eastern end of the beach (right next to the cycle path). The beach is just as pleasant for humans too, and it is popular with those who want to find a quieter spot to sunbathe or take a plunge. There is a fenced dog park next to the beach, with a water fountain and plenty of tree shade to cool off during those hot Riviera days.

Riviera Route can help organise your corporate or wellness retreat on the Riviera. Visit www.rivieraroute.com/choose for more information.

Hidden Riviera: the Lavender Trail

Searching for destinations away from big crowds? In our “Hidden Riviera” blog series, we are continuing to review unspoilt destinations on both the French and Italian Riviera where you can enjoy a summer break safely and with no compromises. This week we explore the Riviera’s Lavender heritage and we reveal when to see lavender in bloom, where to buy lavender-based products and where to witness the best lavender festivals.

On the Riviera, the Lavender season runs from mid-June to the end of July

Think of lavender and your mind inevitably goes towards the South of France. While the areas around Valensole and Sault concentrate most of the lavender production in Provence, the French Riviera has a strong tradition of cultivating this aromatic flower, too. This should not come as a surprise; the city of Grasse, located about 20km inland from Cannes, was for centuries the centre of Europe’s perfume industry. Even today, its perfumeries are thriving, and the cultivation of lavender and other flowers continues to be a significant activity in the surrounding areas.

The village of Gourdon, with stunning views over the Loup valley

The small village of Gourdon, a steep climb 15k north of Grasse, is the gateway to the plateau de Caussols, a vast area of limestone and shrub sitting 1,450m above sea level. These are perfect conditions for growing good-quality lavender, which requires porous soil, high altitude and plenty of sunshine. Some lavender farms can be visited just outside Gourdon, and the village itself has numerous perfume and soap makers. Even outside lavender season, there are plenty of reasons to visit the town. The views from the village across the Loup valley are stunning. There is also a splendid chateau (not currently open to the public due to restoration works) with terraced gardens designed by none other that André le Nôtre, the famous head gardener of the Palace of Versailles.

Flower cultivation is equally important on the Italian side of the Riviera. The hills around Sanremo, Bordighera and Ventimiglia have so many greenhouses for flower cultivation that the area is dubbed the “Riviera dei Fiori” - ‘Riviera of the flowers”. To find lavender, however, you have to go high up the valleys. Here you will find places like Seborga, a small town with little over 300 inhabitants, but with a fierce identity (in fact, they claim that their territory is a centuries-old Principality, and continue to have a ruling Princess, a flag, and even a national guard). Lavender is a symbol of Seborga, and every summer they hold a lively festival where you can find scented sachets, beauty products and the famous lavender-flavoured biscotti made in nearby Vallecrosia.

The circa 300 inhabitants of Seborga claim that their town is a Principality

Further east, in the valley Argentina, the hamlet of Agaggio Inferiore (just outside Molini di Triora) is home to the famous Cugge distillery, where you can find artisanal skincare and essential oils for aromatherapy. In past seasons, the distillery has organised hiking excursions to allow visitors to explore their lavender fields further up the valley. If you find yourself in the area, you can also explore the town of Carpasio, which even has a small museum dedicated to lavender cultivation and distilling.

To really witness how important lavender is to the culture of the Italian Riviera, make sure you visit the city of Taggia on the 22 July, the feast day of Mary Magdalene. In the late afternoon, the confraternities of the town will be coming back from a 24-hour pilgrimage to a remote chapel in the hills behind Taggia. Legend has it that the chapel was the location where Mary Magdalene spent the night on her journey from the Holy Land to Provence (she is said to have lived and died in Provence, which is why she is venerated the as the Patron Saint - if you have read “the Da Vinci Code” you will know all about this!). In order to show that they succeeded in reaching their destination, the confraternities of Taggia enter the city on horseback carrying lavender… tons and tons of lavender bouquets, which they then toss in the air as a gift for the cheering crowds. This is truly one of the most colourful and beautiful festivals in the whole of Liguria, and one that shows the strong connection between Provençal and Genoese traditions which make the Riviera such a fascinating region.

Lavender bouquets go flying in the air during the feast of Mary Magdalene in Taggia

Lavender Festivals: Because of Covid-19 restrictions some of the region’s lavender festivals may be postponed or cancelled in 2020, so it is a good idea to check websites and social media for announcements. Previous years have seen festivals held in French Riviera locations such as Gourdon, Saint Agnès and Peille, and on the Italian Riviera in places such as Seborga, Pigna, Bajardo and Carpasio.

When to see: If you want to see lavender fields in bloom, the season on the Riviera and in the rest of Provence normally runs from mid-June till the end of July. Festivals tend to be held immediately after harvest, i.e. from the end of July until mid-August.

Lavender and wellness: Looking to organise a wellness retreat centred on lavender-based products and aromatherapy? Riviera Route can help you. More information here.

Hidden Riviera: Terra Brigasca

As Covid-19 restrictions begin to ease in many countries around the world, many holidaymakers will review plans for their forthcoming breaks. Those searching for destinations away from big crowds will find a fantastic offering on the Riviera. In a series of blog posts dedicated to the "Hidden Riviera", we will review a handful of options to enjoy a vacation safely and without sacrificing holiday highlights like sunny weather, sightseeing and good food.

Realdo, perched above a steep cliff, is one of the townships on the Italian side of Terra Brigasca

This week we explore Terra Brigasca, a fascinating and beautiful mountain region situated in the Maritime Alps, divided evenly between France and Italy.

The town of La Brigue, cultural capital of the Terra Brigasca

Terra Brigasca owes its name to the town of La Brigue, the region's cultural capital, located about 80km inland from the city of Nice and a dozen or so kilometres from the Italian border. La Brigue was once part of Italy, only becoming French after the end of World War II. The town still displays plenty of street signs and public notices in Italian from its pre-1947 period. Historically, however, the locals spoke neither French nor Italian but Brigasque, a unique dialect with links to both Genoese and Occitan languages. Brigasque came to be the common language of a number of townships located near mountain pastures: La Brigue and Morignole in France, Realdo, Verdeggia and Briga Alta in Italy. These places offered alpine refuges and other facilities for shepherds who brought their livestock for summer grazing, an activity that continues to this day and which is known as transhumance.

The town of La Brigue, part of France since 1947, still has old public notices in Italian

It is no surprise, then, that the symbol of the region - besides its language - is its very own breed of sheep, the Brigasque sheep. Hardy, agile and imposing, the breed is extremely rare and the numbers are in steady decline; there are only between 1,500 and 2,000 left in the world. The number of shepherds dedicated to rear Brigasque sheep is even smaller, nowadays down to single figures. The most common product made from the sheep’s milk is a delicate, fatty and rustic Toma/ Tomme cheese, although ricotta and its mature version, Brüs, can also be found. Historically, dairy was so important to the diet of the Brigasque people that their culinary tradition is known as cucina bianca (white cuisine) as cooking here invariably included cheese and/or white flour in some form. Fresh pasta discs known as ‘sugelli’ (similar in shape to Puglia’s orecchiette) are the pride of the Terra Brigasca.

There are only between 1,500 and 2,000 specimens of Brigasque sheep left in the world

There is outstanding natural beauty all around the region. The majestic peak of Mont Saccarel / Monte Saccarello, dividing France and Italy, will be irresistible for committed mountain hikers. But even a leisurely drive leading up from Valle Argentina to Realdo or indeed from the Vallée du Roya to la Brigue, is breathtaking. Natural ponds and waterfalls appear at every turn of the road, so it is never difficult to find a quiet spot to cool off and enjoy the fresh mountain air. Terra Brigasca would also be the perfect location for a wellness, health or yoga retreat, which Riviera Route can help organise. Find out more here.

The Terra Brigasca boasts outstanding natural beauty

There are plenty of other sights as well. Culture buffs will not be disappointed with the stunning cycle of frescoes inside the small isolated chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines, just outside la Brigue. The impressive scenes depicting Christ’s passion were painted by the Piedmontese master Giovanni Canavesio in 1492, and have earned the site’s nickname of ‘the Sistine Chapel of the Riviera”. Both La Brigue and Realdo have museums dedicated to local traditions and folklore, and there is a busy calendar of summer events from handicraft markets, to concerts (the Brigasques are famous for their acappella chants) and food festivals.

Known as "Sistine Chapel of the Riviera", the remote chapel of Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines

Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines

The towns of Terra Brigasca are mainly accessible from Italy. La Brigue can be reached by exiting the Nice-Genoa A8/A10 motorway at Ventimiglia, following signs on the SS20 road to Breil-sur-Roya on the French side and continuing in the direction of Tende. Realdo and Verdeggia can be reached by exiting at Arma di Taggia and following signs on the SP548 road to Triora. Briga Alta is best reached from Imperia, following signs on the SS28 road to Pieve di Teco.

Border crossings between France and Italy are due to reopen fully on 15 June 2020.